Hi Folks,

I am an HO train enthusiast who enjoys repairing his own model railroading equipment - Ace, Accu-Rail, AHM, American Flyer HO, Athearn, Bachmann, Bowser, Central Valley, Fleischmann, IHC, Joef, Keystone, Laconia, Life-Like, Lilliput, Lindsay, Lionel HO, Mantua / Tyco, Marklin, Mehano, Model Die Cast, Model Engineering, Pemco, Rivarossi, Robico, Roco, Train Miniatures, Varney, brass, etc.

For years, I have developed experimental repairs for various model trains. I have found ways of repairing out-of-quarter drivers on Bachmnann steam locomotives, repairing/rewinding armatures, creating /repairing missing parts from Rivarossi steam locomotives, hand-cutting steam locomotive gears, reparing broken steam engine chassis components made from zamac, using plastic fusion welding to recover damaged parts, performing precision drilling and pinning operations to salvage damaged parts, reinforcing broken parts with 0.003 inch thick shim stock, and repairing shorted / broken steam locomotive drivers.

If someone has a question about a repair or problem, and they don't mind getting their hands a little dirty, I would be glad to pass on some free advice. I don't know it all, and would consider it a chance to improve my own knowledge.

Regards,

Smokie

This is wonderful, Smokie. Sounds like you've had a lot of fun over the years! OK, here's one for you.

Rivarossi plastic-bodied Consolidation 2-8-0 loco, made about 1962 with motor in tender, but gears in engine. The diecast tender frame has crumbled away. I mounted another motor in another tender with the Rivarossi trucks, and hooked it all up to the engine driveshaft, but since the motor shaft is higher than the engine shaft, the loco just leaps lke a jackrabbit. Sounds like I need to find someone clever enough to make a new brass frame for the Rivarossi tender, or what?

Here is how I fixed the three broken Rivarossis I own:
1)Motor is mounted on pedestal that is integral part
of tender chassis. Carefully remove screws that hold
motor in place. Do work over a pie pan. Do not
allow armature to separate from motor housing or
tiny spherical bearings will fall out of bearing
race. If this happens spherical bearings will stick
to motor magnet. Collect bearings and install in
race with grease to temporarily hold in place.
Replacement bearings can be obtained from old ball
point pens (bearing diameter is a little smaller).
If motor is locked down, consider using small
washers under motor frame to elevate armature and
clear pedastal on chassis.
2)Remove tender trucks. Break chassis in front and in
back of pedestal. Save all chips and debris. Lay
pieces next to each other (broken or curved pieces
should be flatter now). Use superglue, chips
of zamac, and zamac dust to fill in crack joints.
Cut pieces of tin cans or 0.003-in shim stock and
glue across joints (on top and underneath
chassis). Tender chassis is flatter now and
sturdy. You can use steel, Micata, or heavy plastic
sheet to replace missing sections of the original
zamac chassis (cut and file to fit). Mop cracked
zamac surfaces of pedestal if needed with
superglue. Note: superglue can cause a fire with
paper towels so be careful not to use too much.
Superglue can stick your fingers together. If you
are careful, you will probably be able to attach
motor back into the original pedestal with some
washers under motor frame using original screws.
If you use 2 washers in front and three washers
in back it will angle the motor slightly downward
toward the engine to compensate for shifting the
whole motor upward. The flexible connection on the
shaft will accomodate a little misalignment between
the loco and tender.
3)Too complex/expensive to do this repair in brass.
For your problem tender, you can use an open frame
motor from Athearn rubber band drive engine/Mantua
steam engine/brass steam engine/small can motor.
You may mount the motor on its side using a metal
bracket. This will allow you to get the height yoy
need. Alternately you can angle the motor downward
toward the loco (lower in front of tender and
higher in back of tender). Make sure the tender
shell clears the motor if you **** motor at an
angle. Alternately, use some of the universal
drive fittings avaiable for Athearn diesels. You
can make a drive shaft up (similar to the
driveshaft in an American automobile)between the
tender motor and drive dhaft in the loco.
4)Write back if confused, puzzled, or frustrated.

Smokie

Wow, you are one patient and inventive individual. Thanks so much for your advice.